I learned at a young age that puppies will loose their baby teeth, just like we do. What? Yup. When a puppy loses his baby teeth there isn't always blood some just fall out.
To be fair I worry about everything.
Seriously, it's not a big deal. There might be a small amount of blood- especially if the puppy is chewing on something - but most of them you probably won't notice.
The new ones should grow in pretty quickly, I think you should see the adult teeth within about a week of the puppy tooth falling out. Sometimes they even overlap for a bit as the adult teeth grow in next to the baby teeth. Your dog has 28 puppy teeth, they will not all fall out at once. You'll see the new ones come in soon.
There is nothing for you to do.
A frozen washcloth has always been a big hit with puppies I've raised. Get a clean washcloth you don't care about, soak it with water, wring it out, and freeze it for a few hours. It's just soft and squishy enough that they can really get their teeth into it. The cold helps with the pain from teething and is soothing, and it's hard so it helps remove baby teeth. Tug of war also helps get rid of those teeth.
Please be aware, his breath is going to smell bad for a little while while his new teeth are coming in.
Sometimes baby teeth do not fall out (are retained) and force the adult tooth to come in crooked. Clearly this would be a case of needing to get medical attention. I'm just saying for your average dog there's no need to go to the vet for the loss of baby teeth.
Retaining baby teeth is uncommon but not rare.
Most the time the retained tooth/crowded adult tooth don't cause injury to the palate like in Pablo's case but the situation is more likely to cause future dental problems.
With a puppy, it is a good idea to keep track of the transition from baby to adult teeth. If the adult tooth starts poking out of the gums while the baby tooth still seems firmly attached, a vet visit isn't unwarranted.
We go camping with our dogs pretty frequently. Depending on how cold it gets you might want to also bring some blankets or even an old sleeping bag for the dog.
Some of my other suggestions are pretty obvious, so I moved this one way up:
- Get a leash-light thing. In the off chance that the dog gets off the leash or take off at night, you don't want to be stumbling around searching for them with your flashlight - it's not fun. Put a light on that sucker.
- Use a harness and keep the dog on a leash at all times. And make sure to actually secure the other end of that leash to something else.
- Bring lots of water and be prepared to take your dog everywhere you go.
- Make sure they have their proper tags. And likewise, make sure they're up to date on flea/tick medication and other shots.
- Once darkness rolls around and we have the fire going, the dog will be pretty happy to just snooze until sunup, whether it's next to you around a campfire or kept secure inside your tent. My dogs are usually pretty glad to sleep on top of my air mattress in the tent while I'm enjoying the fire, but it gets a little cramped once I head to bed, so I like having something else they can sleep on.
Educate yourself on whether dogs are even allowed where you are going. For example, there are no dogs allowed most wilderness areas in national parks. That is they are often not allowed on trails.
This can save you a lot of trouble down the road.
While dogs are allowed in the camping areas most national parks. ational forests seldom prohibit dogs.
We've been to a majority of wilderness areas and national parks in west coast states and they pretty much all prohibit dogs anywhere but parking lots and camping sites. Some places allow dogs on select trails, but they are usually shorter trails around campgrounds. National forests and most state parks are good with dogs as long as they are leashed.
The pee deterents are for stopping marking which isn't an accident. Either they are marking because of another underlying issue or they have an accident because they didn't get let out soon enough. It's worth it to figure out why they are going inside, because no-spray stuff will not stop accidents.
That said, there will be pee on your carpet in all likelihood.
Baking soda works for getting dog pee up, but cats...that's rough. Sprinkle a lot and it will draw the pee up and make a lovely yellow pee cake. Then dispose of it, then vacuum, then use your carpet spot cleaner then vacuum again.
For cats, get a black light and wait until night time to find the spots and use the Nature's Miracle Urine Destroyer.
Cats want to go in litter, and under normal circumstances will never go on the carpet as long as they have clean litter available. If you have multiple cats, you should have multiple litter boxes. The general ratio goes: one per cat, plus one extra.
If you've done that and still have a cat peeing on the carpet, the cat needs to be checked by the vet for urinary tract problems. If the cat is healthy in that respect, then the issue is behavioral.
My solution was to never live in a house with carpet again. My life has been a lot better since I don't have to clean carpet anymore.
Dogs will chew on rocks and concrete for unknown reasons. This may be when they are puppies, but it can be when they are older as well.
It could be a variety of reasons, including feeling good for some reason: taste, feeling, boredom, compulsion, diet/nutrition, medical issue, simply a dumb puppy thing to do, etc.
My friend from elementary school had a dog that would chew on rocks as a puppy.
He eventually seemed to grow out of it, however I have learned that you should try your best to make him understand "No" or "Leave it", and then reward the puppy when he does leave it, however, you must do it in a way where he does not think he is being rewarded by chewing rocks.
Some dogs are more prone than others. Here are things to keep an eye on to learn why.
Does it just swallow?
Where they chew?
- Age and breed?
- What are you feeding?
- Does he still readily eat any time he's fed?
- Does he ever turn away food?
- Specifically what kind of concrete/rocks?
Type of stone?
Anything that may show a pattern?
- Same place?
- Random places?
- Place in your yard?
Susan Garrett's crate games really are amazing. We have friends that take theirs to a puppy kindergarten teacher who has a whole class devoted to them and they have been so beneficial and fun.
- Some crate game ideas
- Crate train during the day as well.
- Feed the dog in the crate.
- Drop special treats in the crate while the dog is watching, and eventually transition to 'surprise' treats in the crate.
- During the day, do short bursts of crate time. Reward for two paws in the crate, four paws, door closed for three seconds, etc. You get the drill.
I found with my pup that crate training at all hours helped best.
I closed to the door so he was stuck in the room with me. Then I put treats and toy in there and let him take naps in there with the door open. Then as he was asleep I would close the door on him so when he woke up he would be used to having the door closed. I would then only let him out once he stopped whining. Then at night I would put the kennel back in my room.
We still had to deal with some whining but it stopped much faster
I noticed after about a month when I'd go sit on my bed and he'd eventually go and lay in his kennel. After he'd lay down I'd close the gate after a few minutes, slowly increasing the time. Eventually I would let him have free roam of the bedroom at night and now he's allowed to go between a few rooms at night, not that you have to choose to not crate at night.
I think the tether and crate are great tools for house training, I can understand not wanting to crate but it can make the learning process easier.
Right now it's all about building habits, let his out about 20 minutes after he drinks, an hour after eating, as soon as he wakes up, and every 2 hours as a general schedule.
Don't forget to work on the command to go pee and rewarding the eliminations that ARE in the right place. Those are just as important as the tethering.
When he squats to go, say gently 'go pee' or whatever signal you want his to relate to elimination. When he is still going, gentle praise and when he is done, lots of good treats! 4 or 5 at least for each go, for the first week of re-training.
If you have a feeling he needs to go but won't, try crating his for about 20 minutes and try again.
He might not go on every break, but it is important to treat his whenever he goes potty in the place you would like his to potty. If he's been pooping on the deck, this means leashing his and walking his in the yard until he has the habit of pooping in grass.
After he potties let his off the leash, that way he'll start to understand that he must potty first and then he can play in his yard.
If you take his for a walk, let his roam his usual potty area when you get back home before going back inside. As for signs, sounds like going away to hide it is his signal.
But every dog is different, and some dogs just don't ask to go outside at all. Mine doesn't. He's 9 years old and has never had an accident and never asked to go outside.
It's my job to just take him out every four hours regardless.
If he were a puppy in training, I would obviously take him out every three quarters of an hour or so.
With tethering his to you, you will probably notice more of his actions before he has an accident. Signals from my own dogs are sniffing around, pawing at carpet, waiting by the door, scratching the door, and the weirdest has been sitting on my feet and refusing to get off.
Every time my girl sits on my feet, I scramble for the door as I know he really has to go. It took me awhile to catch on to that signal, as I figured it was just one of his many quirks.
The most common is probably sniffing around, and most dogs like material that will absorb their mess. Use an a pet cleaner to clean any accident. Even if you can't smell it, there is the possibility that he still can.
If he has a certain "spot" where he tends to have an accident, clean that area very thoroughly with an enzymatic spray.